MEMORY LANE

A few weeks ago, we went on a little tour of Jylland.  This is the biggest "island" in Denmark, to the west of Sjælland, and where Elder Buxton served a good share of his mission.  Our purpose was to re-visit some of his old stomping grounds.  We met up with the CUV couple in Århus (The Larsens) and headed north to Skagen.  The Larsens are always up for some exploring and shopping and poking around  museums.  Too bad they live so far away.

Larsens and me on the beach in Skagen

Skagen is famous for two reasons: their wrist watches which are made and sold world-wide,  and the place at the northern tip of Denmark where the North Sea (going east) and the Baltic sea (going west) meet.  We planned to check out both.

We stayed overnight in a quaint little hotel in Skagen with one of those fantastic Danish breakfasts. Even had gluten-free cereal and bread!  Bright and early we drove up the coast to watch the seas come together.  We parked at the access point with all the other tourists (July is the Big Tourist Month), then trudged down the beach, the wind pushing us from behind.  You know when you arrive, because the land runs out and the sea surrounds you on three sides.  It is NOT a friendly meeting.  The two oceans come together with huge crashing of waves and much protest. You can actually see two colors trying to mix - the North sea an angry green and the Baltic, a dark blue. They do battle beginning just a few meters from your feet and continuing out for miles.  I think the North sea has an edge in the battle; it is much more aggressive and turbulent.

Battle of the Seas

Some intrepid souls took off their shoes to wade in the shallows,  tip-toeing around the jelly fish lying in wait in the wet sand.

Tankers waiting in line

The wind provided a free sand scrub to our faces as we turned back.  We took our time walking through dunes dotted with tufts of sea grass and watching the freighters and tankers off shore lined up and waiting for an escort  into the harbor miles away.  We hear it's either windy or freezing or both on the point, so we felt very lucky to have some sun with our wind.

Colorful and brave street-side flower bed

After the wind bashing, we drove into Skagen, a charming village with narrow cobblestone streets and perennials and hollyhocks crowding up against yellow houses.  We did find the watch factory and Elder Buxton may or may not have folded to pressure and bought one.  ALL the missionaries want a Skagen watch to take home. Or so he claims.

Harbor at Hirtshals

 Our next stop was Hirtshals.  Elder Buxton's memories were of an old sea-side village with a huge fishing fleet moored in the harbor, and ruddy faced, jaunty old fishermen puttering around their peeling boats, and sailing out daily to bring  fresh fish for the markets.  We did find a harbor and we did find fishing boats, all painted in bright colors and bobbing in the bay.  I know the fishing industry is not what it was, so I am guessing tourists hire many of these boats.

Probably the best salad I've had in Denmark.  And yes.  A hamburger on the right.  The Danes attack them quite successfully with knife and fork. 

After trailing up and down the harbor to satisfy the men, we women picked the first restaurant we saw and insisted that we go in.  Hungry!  We managed to snag seats overlooking the bay and the food was fabulous!  Both beautiful and tasty.

White lighthouse and German bunkers

We lingered and watched the sea and the boats.  Hirtshals is also home to old German bunkers scattered up and down the coast and watched over by a white, stone lighthouse.  After lunch we poked around inside and tried to imagine "life in a bunker," from a German point of view.  A notch up from life in a trench; they actually had stoves for heat and cooking.

The USU Aggies need this formidable statue

Last stop on the nostalgia tour was Hjørring.  We drove around trying to find old addresses, but nothing looked familiar.  Elder Buxton insisted that somewhere there was a statue of a stone bull near his old apartment.  Found it!  Bull still threatening.  Apartment gone.

These old missionaries are a strange breed.  They are so thrilled to return to Denmark that they almost kiss the ground on arrival.  Their wives are a bit bemused, but have heard all the "Denmark" stories for years, so smile indulgently as they reminisce like brothers,  yet again.   The missionaries want to recreate, re-find and rediscover their missions and the happiness they felt here.  And, amazingly, even though much has changed, they do find what they are looking for,  considering they have aged as much or more than the places they visit.  The Denmark Missionary Spirit weathers the storms of life pretty well...........