´TIS THE SEASON

CHRISTMAS is the biggest holiday in Denmark by a landslide.  The Danes go absolutely nuts with celebrating.  Traditions are taken very seriously from the Christmas Eve food to the dance around the Christmas tree.  And if you do not celebrate, you better stock up on food and find something to do at home because EVERYTHING  shuts down for at least 3 days, if not more.   Can't even find a loaf of bread to buy. Their big celebration is December 24th, plus "Small Christmas" often celebrated  on the 23rd.  Things start rolling in November with ornaments, lights and pine boughs.  By mid November, Christmas Markets are popping up on the weekends.  These markets, both indoor and out, specialize in every possible thing you might want for Christmas decorating, Christmas giving, and Christmas eating.  We visited some out-of-the-way markets early to get a jump start on the season.  Here are some of our favorites:

Egeskov Castle, Fuenen. We  found Egeskov Castle in September with Kendell.  We pulled up just as the doors were closing not just for the day, but for the season.  Kendell dubbed it "the castle that got away."  But, we noticed they re-opened for a Christmas market held on 2 weekends in November. Fortunately, we were able to travel back to Fuenen in November with the president and his wife for

a rare break during a few slow days.

Unfortunately, the castle itself was closed, but the view outside was spectacular.

Egeskov Slot

Egeskov, a magnificent mid-16th century castle,  is one of Denmark's best known sights.  It is called "Europe's best preserved Renaissance moat castle."  Egeskov means "oak forest" and is built in the middle of a pond on a foundation of oak trees.  The sprawling estate caters to families and contains a bamboo maze, a tree-top trail, acres of lawn, half-timbered farm buildings and even a vintage car museum.  And once a year, a Christmas Market.

This sign shows you directions to all the things you can do here.

Christmas at the castle means live music,  tiny booths stuffed with goodies and hundreds of people strolling the grounds. The day we visited, charcoal brazers warmed the crowds and the smoke hugging the ground gave a medieval feel to the festivities.  Children ran, dodging puddles and teetering on stilts while parents paused to listen to a brass band.  In an old workshop, brimming Christmas booths were lined up in two long aisles with a narrow path wedged in between.  You had to turn sideways to move.  Tangled lights, ornaments, and glass and paper balls brushed your cheeks and shoulders if you veered off the path, and stopping for too long in one place created a bottleneck.  We managed to go the whole length before being spit out at the other end.  Whew!

After Egeskov, we spent the night in another castle - Hindsgavl Slot - a refurbished , beautifully decorated  hotel with all the attached horse and pigs stalls turned into rooms.  We stayed in a former pig stall. Think modern, curved purple chairs, shockingly purple and green shag rugs, and two layers of electric shades.   Deer herds grazed  in the fields around the castle.  Yes indeedy.  

Hindsgavl Slot turned into a unique hotel

Svenstrup Gods, Borup.   The pig farm.  We visited this one last year on a whim and it turned into one of our favorite spots.  An added bonus this year - we got to tour the manor house. See post for December 19, 2015  - "Christmas at the Pig Farm" for a description.

Same pig farm,  different folks.  Elder Larsen, the Shurtliffs, Sister Trudy Larsen (temple),  me, Sister Larsen, Sister Jenson.

 Kronborg Castle, Helsingør -  Probably my favorite market of the year.  The Castle was all decked out in pine-smelling firs with apples and ribbons and berries.  Little booths were crowded into many of the ground-floor rooms and spilled over into the lower casements.  Thank goodness, the lighting was better than normal underground.   One interesting attraction was the sheep, reindeer and seal skin booths.  Every Christmas market has several.  Fur is in.  My favorite is the little lamb skins -  sad, but soft and curly.

Green pine bows are so festive with red apple garlands.

You can only see the castle lit up at night at Christmas time.

And who else would you find in the castle ballroom but ballerinas.

Check out the red wooden cloggs.  So Scandinavian.

 Mr. & Mrs. Claus.

Same  crew that went to the pig farm.  We doubled up and did two markets in one day!!   The early darkness back-lit by the castle made a magical ending to the day. 

We love December in this beautiful country where Christmas has such an emphasis, but sadly the focus is not on the Savior and his birth.  The many beautiful churches sit empty most of the year except on Christmas Eve, where  families fill the churches.  Not necessarily to worship, but because it is a tradition.   I am so thankful this year for the Christmas initiative where  members and non-members are encouraged to "Light the World" by following His example of light and love through small acts of kindness. What a blessing it is to have this guidance and focus for Christmas in a world growing increasingly away from Christ......  What a blessing that we get the best of Christmas traditions combined with the light of the gospel for a true celebration of that which matters most.........

SENIOR, Senior Couple

Not counting the O'Bryant's, we are now the senior missionary couple in Denmark. Yes.  We inherited this title from the Ottley's who left us a few weeks ago for family and new adventures in Washington State.  Kennewick.  This intrepid couple had served back-to-back missions - first in England as MLS and then here in Denmark as record preservationists.  (They captured over 1 million images at the Kommune!!)   It was time.  We miss their perennial good nature and energetic company.  They were always up for a road trip by bus, train or car, whether it be big museums or small out-of-the-way stops.  Good sports.

Here we are at a sporevejmuseet  -  an indoor and outdoor museum dedicated just to the history of the old trolley cars.

Denmark has a gazillion little museums dedicated to anything old:  houses,  recreated villages,  out-dated industries,  trolley cars,  steam engines.  These unique little sites are filled with historical artifacts and just made for tourists like us who want to experience the real Denmark.  We could always count on three things when poking around with the Ottleys:     1.  We would lose Elder Ottley, eventually,  as he went off on his own, sniffing out every little detail.  Indoors and out.  2.  We would not have to read any signage, because Elder Ottley would read everything.  Every. Word.  3.  We could fish any of the historical details out of his brain by just triggering a key word.  Perfect recall. Sister Ottley knew the drill and trailed along with the rest of us and figured he would turn up eventually for the trip home and a re-cap of our adventure.  Worked the same every time.  Loved it.

Frederiksberg Slot and Have (garden)  This old castle, surrounded by expansive lawns and gardens is now used as a military school right by the zoo in Copenhagen.   It is full of old treasures.

I mean, how do you study military stuff in rooms like these?

Anyway,  Sister Ottley was patient and kind and a good listener.  Elder Ottley could discuss any topic and was a walking encyclopedia.  There was only one down-side to traveling with Elder Ottley.  Geese.  Geese didn't like him.  Never could figure it out,  but when they saw him, they hissed and pranced with necks in the air,  then ran at him with their beaks to the ground.   I didn't realize there were so many geese in Denmark until now.  All the rural museums have them, and that's when we were glad he rambled off by himself.  His most sage advise:   "It is impossible to kick a pigeon."  We have laughed about this many times and I think he is right.  I have tried.  Unfortunately.   We miss the Ottleys and wish them all the best.

We have really felt the Lord's blessings here in the mission this month.  This miracle story is worth hearing.  Our Temple President and his wife were recently released after 3 years of service in the Copenhagen temple.  President and Sister Williams have served over 9 years in Europe as an MTC president in England, Mission President in Denmark and now Temple President.  They were ready to go home for a long rest.  After weeks of packing and farewells, they arrived at the airport early in the morning to catch their flight home.  While standing at the counter, checking luggage, President Williams had a heart attack.  Full cardiac arrest.  Fortunately, there were 3 doctors in the airport as well as airport personnel who administered first aid.  He was rushed to the hospital and eventually had a double by-pass.  Always a very healthy man, he was not prepared for this.  In all, they remained here in Denmark for nearly 3 additional weeks until he was able to travel. The hospital staff were amazed at how well he did and amazed at how many people knew and visited this American.  Sister Williams handed out church pamphlets and cards to all the staff.  What a missionary!  When the Williams left the second time, some of the hospital emergency staff came to see them off and said they generally never get to know how things turn out with the people they work on in the airport, and were thrilled to see him alive and well.  Three weeks ago, they didn't think he would make it.  One man said he felt a particular spirit working on President Williams and was very emotional about it. He has agreed to meet with the missionaries.  The Lord certainly blessed President Williams,  and we are grateful for the hand of the Lord in our lives and the lives of our family.  He is truly there for us in moments of need.

President and Sister Williams

Salt Lake City