We said goodbye this month to our friends and neighbors, the Parkers, who returned home to Provo. They were serving as YSA and were much appreciated and loved by two stakes of young adults. The Parkers were wonderful, helpful, dedicated missionaries. Brother Parker, an avid genealogist, shared his Danish research skills with me. A cheerful, whistling, handyman, he carried a Swiss army knife on his belt. Just in case. Sister Parker was a natural organizer and manager. She could whip all us women into an efficient kitchen crew in no time when we were floundering trying to feed 75 missionaries. She also had a map in her head, and was the navigator in the car. She was never lost. They are home catching up with grand kids and planning their travels.
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President and Sister O'Bryant, the Parkers, and us. Farewell dinner.
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The couple replacing them, but going over to Jylland, are the Larsens from Washington State. Energetic couple. We volunteered to escort them over to the ferry which would take them to Århus. The Odden ferry is located almost at the end of a small spit of land northwest of Copenhagen. This massive boat carries a hundred cars and is the quickest way to Jylland. (Then, a few days later, we went again to trade cars. A confusing story involving car registration and parking legalities in Århus. So the weather in the pictures is dark and dreary or sunny, depending on the day.)
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This sign hangs in the harbor on the north shore, next to the road which curls down from the highway.
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We headed out on a cold, blustery day following the main road meandering through the spit, the two-lanes brushing close to the ocean and then jumping back to the center. You would think this area would be commercialized and lined with hotels and ocean-front touristy stuff. Not so. This narrow strip is mostly farmland, surprisingly. Before the spit, we drove past sleek, white windmills like those lining the freeway across Wyoming. Further in, gentle hills spread out from the road ending at the ocean on both sides. You could see coast to coast in the narrower spots. Half way down the spit, the north side boasted a small harbor clinging to the edge of the sea, with far more boats than the locals could own. Rusted, fishing tubs rubbing shoulders with sleek sailing sloops. So, summer must bring some tourists. A few closed tackle shops, eateries and souvenir shops looked tired and defeated in the cold.
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| Small harbor on the north side about half way down the spit. At the bottom of this road is the sign shown above. |
The coast to coast farm fields are separated by rock walls, long-needled pine trees or tangles of shrubs and are still green. Farmsteads lay scattered here and there between little red-roofed villages with names like Gudmindrup or Højby; each with the white, stair-step church tower peculiar to Denmark, rising above the red tiles. A few pastured horses graze near fences, and geese and swans nest on the frost-stiffened grass.
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Second trip, better weather. You can see the ocean in the background and the frost on the grass.
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The main building on these farms is u-shaped with living quarters, barn and feed storage all connected. I guess the idea years ago was to be able to take care of all the needs of the animals and people without having to go outside. Other outbuildings huddle close to the main house as if for warmth, or are sometimes attached to the main building like extra limbs. In the past these farms would have upwards of 70 people. (I have found whole families of ancestors in the 1736 census living on farms such as these, listed as farm help.) Some folks had tiny plots of land to til, to supplement the food, but owed most of the working time to the landlord. Children as young as six had chores and jobs. Everyone worked. Generations of the same peasant family stayed on the same farm.
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This main house has a thatched roof. You can see two legs of the "U."
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I was curious to see just how close to the sea the farms could stretch, so we drove off on a muddy track on the south side. The sea and the farms were separated by a lane, and a strip of soggy coast with stunted, wind- blown trees common to coastal shores.
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Our first trip, a blustery day with dark clouds scudding across the horizon. Faded row-boats lay abandoned on the shore.
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Apparently the farms are not allowed to run right to the ocean, but come pretty close. Eventually we ran into a gaggle of little summer homes stretched out along the shore and in toward the center. Mostly tiny with windows and porches facing the sea, overgrown yards, and abandoned canvas flapping on clotheslines.
Heading back, we couldn't resist stopping at an old church surrounded by a well-tended graveyard. We entered the yard through a curious, celtic-looking gate and found Christmas greens still decorating the graves. Inside, we found the chapel complete with a miniature viking ship hung from the ceiling - a common sight in the old Danish churches.
All in all, this little side trip was a fine change from the office.
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| Burial plots outside the church. Danes lay pine branches everywhere at Christmas: at the base of real trees, in planters, window boxes and on graves. They stay marvelously green because of the cold weather and moisture. |